Sun, it rises from Kenneth Zirkel on Vimeo.

This is a tour that anyone in the NYC/Nassau County area can take with just one overnight stay in Cape May, NJ. I visited seven lighthouses, climbed to the top of five of them, and could probably have squeezed in one more, if I had planned better. Most of the lighthouses in New Jersey are open at least some of the time, and in general these lights are very visitor friendly and easy to find. Click the photo to see the whole post.

Start: Depart Long Island around 8AM under overcast skies; I suppose if I had gotten up early, I could have photographed the sunrise at Fire Island Light. But I did not.

Absecon Light, Atlantic City around 11:15 AM

Absecon Light is an oasis in a blighted urban neighborhood. The lighthouse is surrounded by a tall security fence; outside the fence is a blighted urban neighborhood of empty lots, rundown Victorians, and more recent housing projects. In the distance you can see the glittering new highrises and casinos which seem so out-of-place in this former Victorian seaside resort. This new development is some distance away, toward the center of town, but obviously creeping closer; the Revel Entertainment building is under construction just a few blocks away. This glass-covered skyscraper is significantly taller than the lighthouse, and threatens to make it a small blip in the skyline.

Inside the fence perimeter, the keeper’s house is in an obvious state of disrepair. Inside is a gift shop and museum, and for US$7 one can climb the 228 steps to the top of the light. At each landing there’s a window with a view facing a different direction, and a small exhibit shows you photos of that view from different times in history. It’s a bit depressing to realize that the blighted city of today was, about a century ago, a magnificently beautiful Victorian escape. The grand Victorians of yesterday have been replaced by concrete bunkers and empty lots.

At the top of the tower you are greeted by a volunteer keeper and given a small card which certifies your climb to the top. It’s a cute little souvenir, and a thoughtful touch. Up at the top it’s quite blustery, but there’s a magnificent view of Atlantic City. You can also get a fairly good view of the interior of the magnificent Fresnel lens, behind which are two 300-watt incandescent bulbs.

After climbing the light, I decide to take a short walk to the famous Atlantic City boardwalk to see if I could get a good view of the light from there. On the way I pass a scene which looks straight out of the television program “The Wire”, as two black youths in sweatshirts are approached by a motorist in a Lexus. I’m wondering if a drug deal is going down, while simultaneously hoping that they don’t notice me carrying several thousand dollars worth of photo equipment. I pass unnoticed, but somewhat shaken, quickly take some snaps from the boardwalk, and head back to the gated fortress Absecon to get some more photos before heading south. The weather remains overcast and intermittently drizzly.

Hereford Inlet Light: 2PM

This is a small neighborhood lighthouse, not nearly as tall or imposing as the major lights on the coast. It’s owned by a small town, and kept up with evident pride by the locals. The light itself is a garden is a gorgeous “stick style” Victorian mansion, and the gardens are likewise stunning, and kept up with obvious love and care. The keeper’s dwelling has been converted to a museum, which you can tour; unfortunately you cannot visit the lantern room. The weather remained overcast and more drizzly than before.

At this point, I had to decide if I could make East Point Lighthouse. I probably could have made it, but at the expense of time at Cape May. Since it was my first time going to Cape May, I didn’t want to make that trade-off. I wanted some time to scout the area, as it is a major tourist attraction and I wanted to have time to climb the tower, scout the area, and get good photos.

Cape May Lighthouse: 4PM

I arrive at Cape May Light with plenty of time to climb the light (the hours were not posted online, but I believe they are 10-6). The design is nearly identical to Absecon (as is Barnegat, as well), and again I am greeted by a guide at the top of the tower. Cape May is a dramatic departure from Atlantic City, another seaside resort, but one which managed to maintain its Victorian charm. The main attraction at the Point, though, is neither the lighthouse nor other works of man, but rather the migrating birds. Tripods here are for spotting scopes, not cameras.

The sun peeks out from behind the clouds once or twice, but not for long enough for me to actually take advantage of it. Cape May Light is very much open from the East, so I can easily shoot with the sun behind the lighthouse in the West. However, walking around to the South, it’s very hard to get a straight shot of the light. Further around, to the East, you can get the top of the light, but it’s hard, if not impossible, to get an all-around “lighthouse on the sand dunes” kind of shot. It’s kind of frustrating, until a few minutes after sunset, the sun illuminates the clouds from beneath, creating colorful bands of pink.

I spend the night at the modest West Cape Motel, which was the only place I found with vacancy, after calling quite a few places. Turns out, it’s in the perfect location, just five minutes from the lighthouse. Rooms are quite reasonable and clean, and I spent a few dollars more to get a mini-suite with two rooms and a full stove and refrigerator.

Sunday Morning

Sunday I shot Cape May Light again for 7AM sunrise. My plan was, if the shooting was poor, I’d leave at 7:30 to head over to the East Point Light. However, I was enjoying myself, and shooting some macros of pondside flowers. I figured I’d split the time I would have spent going to East Point between Cape May and Barnegat.

Barnegat Light: 10:45 AM

Barnegat features a small lighthouse museum, and here, like elsewhere, you can climb to the top. The area is relatively open, and there are multiple opportunities for good views.

Barnegat is lovely lighthouse which is a focal point for people gathering. There is a fishing pier along the shore here, and many locals enjoying themselves here. I saw one father impress his young son by catching a big fish, an old guy dispensing advice to anyone who would listen, and a small brown mink dodging between the rocks. Also, this was the day of a footrace which terminated at the lighthouse. Good thing I did not try to come later, as the roads in town were jammed with car traffic and runners by noon.

Sea Girt Light: 2PM

Visiting Sea Girt Light takes some planning; it’s only open on Sundays between 2 and 4 PM. But it’s worth it. I arrived just before 2, got some external shots, and then toured the museum. There are numerous volunteer docents, and you can climb upstairs and up a rung ladder through a hole in a ceiling to the lantern room. It’s small and absolutely lovely.

Navesink Twin Lights: 4PM

Time is running out, as Navesink is only open till 5. I have an hour to climb the north tower to the lantern room, and explore the large museum inside. The building closes at 5, but the grounds are open a short while longer. However, it’s a hard lighthouse to photograph, as there are two lights connected by a long, low east-facing building. It might be worthwhile to return here for sunrise.

Sandy Hook: 5:25 PM

Unfortunately for me, Sandy Hook lighthouse closes at 5PM, but the grounds are open until late. I shot mostly from the West; as the light is partially surrounded by trees I didn’t even try other angles, as the sun was sinking low.

Then it was back to Nassau County.

Note: Depending on how early you leave NYC or how fast you go, you might also be able to squeeze in a ferry trip from Cape May to Lewes, Delaware (at least two more lights, plus a sea view of Cape May) for a cost of about two hours time; or a trip to the very quaint East Point Light on the Delaware River (adds about an hour of driving time, plus shooting time). I decided to spend more time at Cape May instead, mostly because I wanted to have time to scout out the area, and also to walk up the tower. Also, as I shot in October, the days are not as long as at other times of year.

From the put-in, I paddled south under the bridge, past into Stage Harbor. As you pass the marina and come around the bend, the Stage Harbor lighthouse is pretty soon visible. This lighthouse was my destination.

As I rounded the bend, I was against the wind but the sea was pretty calm. Lots of boats in the water. I passed the Stage Harbor Yacht Club and I paddled out across the harbor toward a narrow spit of sand, aiming directly for the Lighthouse. When I reached land, I pulled out; I was still inside the harbor, situated northeast of the lighthouse, which was still some distance away. I took some photos, then put in again and headed southeast to the harbor mouth, hugging the shore closely. The water was pretty calm, as I rounded the bend and hauled out again in the channel where Stage Harbor meets Nantucket Sound.

Stage Harbor Light is no longer a working lighthouse, and is in fact currently missing its lantern; it has been converted to a private residence. It’s a really pleasant spot to visit; there’s lots of boat traffic coming in and out of Stage Harbor (the harbor entrance is a narrow channel about 100 feet across). There are a few people walking around, and I had a chat with a woman and her 10-year-old daughter. She explained to me that this is her favorite spot on earth. I asked her how she got there, and she explained that there is a short hike from a parking lot for Hardings Beach.

Without bothering the residents, I took some photos of the lighthouse, including some self-portraits with the light. I had brought my 5D and tripod in a dry bag. I did not round the bend and go into Nantucket Sound; rather, I turned around and paddled back northeast through Stage Harbor and back under the bridge and up the Mitchell River a little bit; paddling this direction was quite easy because I was with the wind. I turned around and headed southwest again, into the wind, to head back to the bridge and my car.

Later during my trip I took a seal watching tour which took me in a powerboat around the Monomoy and Nantucket Sound area. There are lots of really interesting sandbars and wildlife to the southeast of Chatham. We saw a family with a canoe exploring there, and it looked safe to me. However, our captain said the winds can be really strong, and it’s easy to get tired. A few days later I read in the newspaper that two kayakers had reported seeing a shark attack a seal in the vicinity.

I basically took the route that Oldmixon suggests, but I added a side jaunt to the Jamestown Bridge and a circumnavigation of Dutch Island. I can see why the author did not suggest these side trips; the water is significantly more exposed, choppy, and windy. However, I made it without any problem, and got some great photos, to boot. See my photoset on Flickr.

More information: the before lunch part was about 11am to 1:30 pm. After lunch part was about 2:30pm to 4 pm. Parking at Beaver Head was expensive, $25.

This trip appealed to me for several reasons, not least because there are three lighthouses along the route: the two on Thacher Island, plus one on Straitsmouth Island.

Here are instructions to do this trip

Put in your kayak at the Rockport town dock at the end of T-Wharf. Arrive early enough in the day and you can park right on T-Wharf. At other times, you might have to drop off your kayak and park far away from the dock; perhaps very far away. At the end of T-Wharf, there’s a stairway to a floating platform; carry your kayak down those stairs and launch from the platform.

Coming out of Rockport Harbor, you can see Straitsmouth Island immediately to the right. Head for the lighthouse (there are better views on the far side). As you approach Straitsmouth Island, you’ll see the twin lighthouses of Thacher Island through Gap Head. Go through Gap Head toward Thacher Island. (I didn’t see any seals, but apparently there are sometimes seals at Gap Head). I took a little detour along the south end of Straitsmouth Island to see a better view of the lighthouse and keeper’s house. Then I headed due south.

At this point, you’re about halfway to Thacher Island. Aim for the north tower; the boathouse is a few hundred yards to the right of the north tower. Pull your kayak up the boat ramp, to the concrete resting area. From here you can tour the island.

Officially, the island is closed outside of June through October. The towers are not open and there is nobody on the island. However, the kayak tours do stop there, and the official web site does not say that you’re not allowed to visit the island during the off-season. The trails were well-mowed when I visited, so somebody is keeping up the place. I wore sandals, but I would have preferred sneakers or hiking shoes for climbing rocks and walking through the occasional brambles and bushes.

I arrived on Memorial Day (May 25), when it was seagull nesting season, so I was bombarded by territorial gulls along most of the coastal area. There are picnic tables near the south tower, and also in the camping area near the boathouse. I ate lunch on the bench at the boathouse, where it was shady and the seagulls did not bother me. There is no running water or bathrooms on the island. No pets are allowed on the island.

There are maps of Thacher Island here and here, but you don’t really need a map. The towers are powerful landmarks that help keep you oriented. Even if you can’t go inside the towers, they are fun to see up close and photograph. I’d like to go back when the towers are open, though.

Alternate starting points: It occurs to me that if you were to begin your kayak trip from Long Beach, you could stop at Thacher Island and then head to Rockport. Dock at Rockport for lunch (and/or ice cream), and avoid the hassle of parking in town. If you stayed overnight at the Cape Ann Motor Inn, you’d be right on the beach. Alternatively, the Old Granite Pier looks like a good starting point, just north of Rockport Harbor. It’s about 3.5 miles from Old Granite to Thacher Island. I have not been there, but it looks like a good put-in spot; it’s easier to park than the harbor, and you can still stop by the harbor for lunch or ice cream.

Thacher island route; click to see bigger

If only the sky would cooperate. I made it to the lighthouse in plenty of time only to find a completely overcast sky. You can guess that I spent most of my time there taking some silly self-portraits, and I wasn’t in the best mood.